Don’t Expect Too Much From Pup

During the past few months, several folks have told me that they’ve purchased a puppy and are preparing their new pup for the upcoming bird season.  What could be more exciting than having a new best friend and hunting companion this fall?  Especially, if you’ve spent hours, days and weeks training the pup.

No matter how much time you’ve spent with your pup, no matter how much training the pup has received either by the owner or a professional trainer, don’t expect too much.  Delmar Smith, the pointing dog training guru of the 1970s, commented in his book, Best Way to Train Your Gun Dog, about new owners of young dogs calling him and crowing that they have a “natural”.  They have a puppy sure to amaze all observers during the upcoming bird season.  

Delmar always chuckled at these proclamations since he knew what often happens with these phenoms…they fall apart under real hunting conditions.  These conditions include wild birds, multiple scent cones, wild flushes, running birds, blowing wind and all the other factors which affect a pointing dog’s performance.  Factors that your pup may not have encountered during training.

There are simply too many variables for your pup to perform consistently at an early age; therefore, don’t expect too much since they are not machines.  Even in the upper echelons of pointing dogs, a champion- level dog will sometimes simply forget about staying steady to the flush; he’ll break and chase as though he’s never received two minutes of training.  Mike Gaddis, in his fine book, Zip Zap, discusses the frustration during witness of dogs breaking during either flush or shot during preparation for the National.  These dogs have seen the finest trainers and training methods known to date.

I’m not aware of any of my dog friends training for the National; however, secretly, we would all like to have a “brag” dog.  A dog that is the envy of our hunting friends.  So your new pup falls apart on opening day; don’t in the least be discouraged.  A puppy being confused and losing focus is a true “natural”.  If you remain patient and consistent with your training methods, the pup will eventually be your “brag” dog.

Here are a few tips to help you and your pup.  First, if your dog is under one year, don’t be upset with your dog breaking point, chasing birds or even bumping birds.  All of these mistakes are normal for a pup and there should be no punishment or scolding.  

Secondly, under no circumstances should you use an e-collar for correcting a puppy for mistakes in the field. Put the e-collar away.  After careful study and yard introduction, you may begin using the e-collar after the pup’s first year in the field.  An e-collar is never a substitute for well thought-out yard training.

Thirdly, don’t carry a gun the first few days of hunting this fall.  Handle your pup rather than hunt over him.  Invite your son, daughter, wife, friend, or whomever, to be the shooter.  You can’t properly handle a pup in the field and carry a gun.  Your pup needs 100% of your attention.

And last, if you have the time, take your dog west to Saskatchewan or Manitoba where you can get 100 flushes per day.  He’ll figure it out in a hurry.

The above are suggestions for right now.  For the long term, simply plan on a continuous training program right through next summer.  You’ll be amazed at the maturity your young dog will demonstrate during his sophomore year of hunting.  Your “brag” dog might be only one year away.

Steady or Not?

By Steve Ries

There is a long history of good arguments within all upland hunting breeds whether or not training to steadiness is important to their wild bird hunting situations. Some will argue the importance of being right behind the bird, as the natural survival instinct takes flight and success of one sharp shooter’s skill meet together. Others will argue the safety of their well-trained hunting companion is far more important than the risks of hunting with others in excitable moments during the hunt.

First of all, let’s have a better understanding of what “steady” really means as a training level.

Having a steady dog simply means a dog that will stand still, or sit at the flush, or shot of the game pursued. To pointing breeds, this is usually an inherited trait selected in breeding programs of importance and natural to the breed.

To the retrievers and flushers, steady simply means to sit still on command or cue developed in a training program. This trait is a training command, which is not inherited or natural as their instincts tell them to move the game from its next position.

Steadiness in hunting breeds can be developed with combining natural instincts and artificial situations of birds in launchers or planted birds used to create associations of distractions with commands already in place.

We first must teach a dog to stand still or sit and not move until we invite them to do so. Adding distraction of birds to this training will entice the movement from this command and allow us to train or re-enforce the commands used to steady them back up.

As we build an understanding of each command, we can further our levels of steadiness like a foundation on a building. First, you want a solid foundation to build from and cannot move forward with the rest of the training until we complete each level to support the next.

Steady to flush means a dog will stand still or sit until the bird is moved from its nesting position. The point or sit is released at the flush if this is the level or cue built into your training program and will give chase immediately with the flush.

More hunters are steadying their dogs through the flush until the shot to avoid any risk placed in their hunting companions. These versatile breeds will stay focused on the flight of the bird and released at the shot to narrow the distance from the harvested game and make a complete retrieve.

Regardless of your side of these beliefs, we all enjoy a well-trained hunting companion that will create a safe situation during an intense moment of the hunt.

Be safe and enjoy the great outdoors.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.

The Last Hunt

By Steve Ries

Too often gun dog owners take for granted their teammates and do not realize how great they truly were until after they have passed. I own numerous dogs and have had the pleasure to hunt with dozens of fine hunting hounds. With that said, I always knew my first dog Lily, was something special.

The Greatest Gift
I got Lily as a wedding present from my mother and father-in-law. She was a chocolate bundle of joy and the first dog that was wholly mine. I was determined to train her myself to not only hunt, but run competition. Hunting was natural to her, but the competition was well… something she ran me in. Trainers would refer to her as a “whole lotta dog”. This was basically a nice way to tell me I was in over my head. I still decided I was going to train my girl and learn with her the art of the retrieving sports. We worked plenty and she became a great upland hunter for grouse and pheasants. Many a time came along where I was ridiculed for my brown dog being inferior because of her color––nothing would be said and we would head to the field. After the hunt, (and after she hunted the other dogs off the field in embarrassment), I would receive the same compliment: Not bad for a chocolate.

Lily eventually led me to the Labrador retriever breeding world. I decided to work on producing my own kennel and line of labs. With the strength of puppies from Lily the groundwork was laid for my kennel, training program, and eventual foray into television. With all of the above said, I will still always remember our last hunt.

“Just Me and You, Boss”
It was December and I had 5 dogs at our cabin. Grouse season was still open and I decided to take the dogs out. Slowing in her old age, Lily would struggle to keep up with the young dogs. Even at 11 years old, she still would manage to put up her share of birds. As I got my shotgun and coat I let Lily out of the cabin. I was walking to the kennel to get a couple of other dogs when she gave me that look. The look said, “Let’s go out together, just me and you, boss.” I had gotten the look other times, but for some reason took her up on it that day.

We went out in the woods and put up 12 grouse. I shot like usual and we got only one. It didn’t matter though. I could see how much it meant to my old girl that it was just the two of us. She would flush birds, look after I shot and run back to me. Once at my feet, she would drop on her back and perform the “Victory Roll” that she had become famous for with friends and clients. The truth was neither of us cared if we got a bird; it was just she and I, as a team. I did take her out to a few game farm hunts later in the year, but that was truly our last hunt.

Life Lessons
It is said that you only get one great dog in your life. I am sure that I will, and already do, have dogs with immense talent, shown by their titles. But ability and titles are not what make a hunting dog great. I know I will never again have the same bond with another dog that Lily and I had. She was my first and once-in-a-lifetime all at once.

My Dillers taught me more about dogs, training, life, and now death than any other animal ever will. She passed with a massive infection––by the time she saw a vet it was too late. To her last day, she never showed a sign of illness. I think she was just focusing on the hunting season that was only a month away. Twelve years is a good life for a Lab, especially as they were all quality years. That still doesn’t make the thought of not having her in the field, riding shotgun in the truck, or sitting on my lap on the couch any easier.

Tomorrow dawns a new day and I’ll pick myself up. I will work with my dogs and hunting season will be packed with adventures. I just won’t enjoy them quite as much as I used to.

Thank you for the great memories girl. Now rest easy, find a nice tree to curl up under, and please wait for me. I’ll be along in a bit and we will hit the field. I promise to shoot straight this time and it will be just the two of us. I promise.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.

The 3 Types of Upland Sporting Dogs

By Steve Ries

An Extension Of You

There are many sporting breeds for upland bird hunting and everyone has a personal preference. In my experience, many types and breeds of dogs can be effective hunters. Most sporting breeds produce well rounded companions with the genetics to excel while hunting in the field or on the lake. A good bird dog, regardless of breed, will give you a longer reach and the ability to find, point or flush and retrieve more birds than you could on your own. The shooting part, though, is up to you.

Upland Types

There are three general categories sporting dogs used for upland bird hunting: Flushing, Pointing and Retrieving. Each type has its own strengths and characteristics in addition to variations among the breeds within each type. The following is a general overview of what you can expect from a hunting companion of each type. Keep in mind that these are general statements and you may see significant differences not just among different breeds, but also between dogs of the same breed.

Pointing Breeds

As a breeder and trainer of pointing dogs for many years I’m a little biased. Pointing dogs fit my hunting style best but I have enjoyed hunting with Flushers and Retrievers as well.

• Hunting Strengths – Pointing breeds are often somewhat smaller and leaner than retrievers and capable of covering a lot of ground due to tremendous athleticism. Some breeds have less speed but still exhibit great endurance. They will generally hunt within gun range and, upon finding a bird, they will lock on point and give you time to approach for a comfortable shot. Most pointing breeds will naturally retrieve to hand.
• Common Breeds – Brittany, English Setter, German Shorthaired Pointer, German Wirehaired Pointer and Pointer (English).

Retrieving Breeds

Retrievers include the most popular registered breed (Labrador Retriever) according to the American Kennel Club (AKC). This is generally considered to be a result of the intelligence and social nature of the breed.

• Hunting Strengths – Retrieving breeds are known for their versatility and their ability to withstand extreme cold be it snow, ice or water. They generally have a more rugged build, but maintain good speed and agility. They will quarter in front of the hunter to flush upland birds and should stay within comfortable gun range. As you can tell from the name, they are enthusiastic retrievers of upland birds and they love the water.
• Common Breeds – Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Golden Retriever and Labrador Retriever.

Flushing Breeds

Flushers also include some breeds that are very popular as house companions due to their size, appearance and disposition. For the most part, Spaniels populate the flushing category.

• Hunting Strengths – Flushing breeds are generally smaller in stature than many pointing and retrieving counterparts. They will quarter in front of the hunter to flush birds and should also stay within comfortable gun range. Like Retrievers, they are very comfortable in water and have coats that are well suited to extreme cold. Flushers will naturally retrieve to hand and are well known for their stamina.
• Common Breeds – Boykin Spaniel, English Cocker Spaniel and English Springer Spaniel.

Many Good Choices

The thing to remember is that the best bird dog is the one that fits your hunting style. Research breeds and find one with the traits and qualities you desire. Training and hunting with an instinctive hunting companion can provide many years of outdoor enjoyment. If you don’t have the time or experience to train him, we encourage you to work with a professional to bring out the natural gifts of whatever breed you choose.

For more information on specific sporting breeds, visit the Bird Dog Bonanza at www.quailforever.org.

Seasonal Feeding Programs

By Steve Ries

Feeding For Performance
As a breeder and trainer of canine athletes, we've spent many years refining our feeding program to ensure peak performance and condition throughout the year. Consequently, we get a lot of questions about the feeding regimen in our kennel. Following is a summary of some of the key points to consider regarding daily feeding requirements.

Focus First on Hydration
Before you consider how to feed, you must address the top priority. Dehydration is likely the greatest risk you face when moving from your off-season routine into the hunting season. While dogs don't sweat, they lose water through a variety of other activities. The importance of a constant supply of clean, fresh water cannot be underestimated and is likely the greatest contribution you can make to the health of your dog. Maintain a steady supply of water throughout the year and allow your dog to replenish with frequent small doses while hunting.

Special Attention To Puppies
Puppies have 2-3 times the maintenance requirement of a similar sized adult. This makes it more difficult to meet their caloric needs as activity increases. We tell our customers that their puppy burns a lot of fuel but has a small tank. Consequently, we suggest feeding in small increments 3-4 times daily until at least six moths of age to make sure energy needs are met. Since obesity can also cause major health issues down the road, we avoid overfeeding to consistently maintain ideal body condition.

Adult Requirements
Feeding an adult dog is easy during the off-season since there is little fluctuation in their requirements. A fifty pound dog can generally maintain proper body condition on 1000-1500 calories daily with normal temperatures and activity levels. As activity increases for the hunting season, calorie requirements can increase by as much as 50%. It is important to monitor your dog to make sure he maintains the proper condition to perform at the desired level throughout the season.

Meal Time
In our kennel, we place a great deal of importance on feeding times. Whatever the age of your dog, it is important to time feedings to allow for proper digestion before periods of activity. Here are a few quick feeding tips to help you avoid digestive issues with your dog.

1. Avoid feeding in the heat of the day as this can result in increased body temperature caused by the digestive process.
2. Allow at least 2 hours between feeding and exercise to help avoid digestive issues like indigestion and bloat.
3. Break daily feeding into at least 2 meals (e.g. morning and evening) as this also helps avoid digestive issues.

It is also important to train your dog to eat when offered. This will allow you to more easily adhere to the tips noted above and avoid problems while maximizing performance.

A Winter Coat
We'll close with comments on how environmental factors affect calorie requirements. If your dog spends the winter in low temperatures, his body is forced to generate its own heat. He may need up to 30% more calories to generate the required body heat. If he's curled up indoors with you, though, it's best to avoid the extra calories and keep him lean and mean. This will make it easier to get him back into hunting form when the weather warms.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.

What Level Is Your Dog?

By Steve Ries

What The Levels Mean
The first thing most people ask when they see Native® performance dog food is what do the Energy Levels mean. The Energy Levels are simply an indicator of the caloric content of each formula. The higher the number, the higher the calorie content. Native was designed to make it easy to choose the level of food that will meet your dog's needs and all Levels are formulated to meet the nutritional requirements for all life stages.

Change Is Easy
With one exception, the ingredients are exactly the same in all of the Native products. The Energy Levels are increased by simply adjusting the balance of Proteins, Fats and Carbohydrates in each formula. Since the ingredients are the same, you won't get digestive issues when you move from one Energy Level to another as your dog gets more active.

The one exception is that Native Level 1 uses primarily Lamb Meal while the other Levels use primarily Chicken Meal. This formula was created to meet the needs of dogs that have very sensitive stomachs and just seem to do better on Lamb than other meat proteins.

Energy Factors
With that said, there are several factors that will determine what Level is appropriate for your canine athlete. We have found the following factors to be the most important ones.

• Breed – As a rule, certain breeds tend to burn more calories than others.
• Age – Puppies tend to burn more calories than adults.
• Activity – Obviously, more active dogs burn more calories.

You should keep in mind as you consider these factors that there really are no hard and fast rules. Every dog is a little different and body condition should be evaluated on a regular basis to ensure that nutritional requirements are being met.

So What Level Is Your Dog?
The following are some recommended starting points that work well for most breeds. Again, this is just a starting point. If your dog is very active, move him up a level if it seems to help.

Formula	Puppies	Adults
Native Level 1	Large breed puppies Puppies with sensitive stomachs	Medium and large breeds with normal activity All breeds with sensitive stomachs
Native Level 2	Medium breed puppies Large breed puppies	Small & medium breeds - normal activity Large breed – active dogs
Native Level 3	Small & medium breed puppies Large breed puppies if limit fed	Small & medium breed – active dogs Large breed – very active dogs
Native Level 3 Puppy	Small & medium breed puppies Large breed puppies if limit fed	Small breed – very active dogs Dogs that must have very small kibble
Native Level 4	Small breed puppies Medium breed puppies if limit fed	Small breed – very active dogs Medium & large breed – very active dogs

Don't Forget The Water
As always, quality and quantity of water is the key to any nutritional program. We need to make sure the bowl is kept clean and full to maintain optimal health. We strongly encourage frequent cleaning of your food and water bowls to avoid the presence of bacteria and we try to never let the water bowl run dry. This may be the best thing you can do to keep your dog happy and healthy.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.

Transitioning To A New Dog Food

By Steve Ries

Changing To A New Food
As we talk to people about Native^® performance dog food, one question we are often asked is how to safely switch your dog to a new food. The answer is particularly important due to the nature of a high performance food. Performance foods are very nutrient dense since they don't contain “filler” type ingredients like corn, wheat, soy and by-products. They are formulated to enhance the performance of a very active dog, but they leave a smaller margin for error with regard to feeding quantity. The following are a few important points to keep in mind when considering a switch to a performance food.

Change Should Be Gradual
Because dogs are consistently fed the same diet, it can be hard on their digestive system to change foods too suddenly. When you make a change to your dog's diet, you should do it gradually by mixing progressively smaller quantities of the current food with larger quantities of the new food. We generally recommend a schedule like the following:

•    Days 1-3:    Mix 20% of the new food with 80% of the old food
•    Days 4-6:    Mix 40% of the new food with 60% of the old food
•    Days 7-9:    Mix 60% of the new food with 40% of the old food
•    Days 10-12:    Mix 80% of the new food with 20% of the old food
•    Day 13:    Feed 100% of the new food

This type of schedule should allow your dog to adjust to the new diet without indigestion. Keep in mind that you'll need to have six days worth of the old food on hand to get you through the transition.

Don't Overfeed
Many dogs have large appetites and will eat all you feed them so you need to be careful not to overfeed. Obesity, particularly at a young age, can cause serious health issues later in life. We recommend a performance food because your dog will be healthier and perform better, but they do have higher calories so you'll want to limit feed. While all foods have feeding guidelines on the package, these are really just a starting point. The best way to determine how much food your dog needs is to keep a close eye on body condition. If he looks too thin, feed him a little more. If he looks like he is carrying too much weight, scale him back a little bit at a time. He may act hungry but his body condition will tell you different.

Wait For The Payoff
One final thing to keep in mind is that it usually takes 4-8 weeks to see the full benefit of a new food. Normal signs of improvement like smaller, firmer stools should happen pretty quickly but improvements in skin, coat and endurance take a little longer. You'll want to give your new food at least a couple months before you evaluate the full effects. A bird dog with more energy and endurance means better hunting and more birds so the end result definitely makes a change worthwhile.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.

Pre-Season Conditioning

By Steve Ries

Health & More Birds
With the hunting season just around the corner, now is a good time to start thinking about conditioning your canine athlete for early season performance. We wouldn’t think about going out and running ten miles one day without some prior physical training and it doesn’t make any more sense to expect it from our dogs. By getting our dogs in shape before the season, we go a long way toward ensuring a healthier and more effective hunting companion.

A high level of physical fitness contributes to a dog’s mental fitness because a tired dog will focus less on commands and finding birds. Risk of injury is also reduced during both training and hunting when muscles and tendons are strong and joints well lubricated. Training the body to recover from a work out will prepare your dog for longer hunts and more days hunting.

Before You Start
Before you get to work, it is important to consider three factors that can have a tremendous impact on your dog’s ability to function at a high level. We recommend you think of the following before starting any conditioning program.

1. See Your Vet – A good overall examination will ensure that your dog is fit for training and free from clinical problems and parasites that could adversely affect health and performance.
2. Choose A Quality Food – Rather than focus on a specific brand let’s just agree that nutrition is very important. Your dog must consume high quality protein to build and repair muscle tissue. Its diet must also support the immune system and overall health with high quality vitamins and trace minerals.
3. Replenish Fluids – Making sure that your dog stays hydrated may be the single greatest factor in health during hunting. If your dog won’t drink water, find a good hydration supplement that encourages it to drink.

3 Steps To Fitness
Now we’ll get into the meat of the conditioning program. We base our conditioning program around three basic areas that compliment one another for a complete workout of the entire body and organs. You don’t need to do everything every day, but you should try to do something each day.

1. Roadwork – We road our dogs on gravel early in the morning when traffic is sparse. We hook four dogs to a harness to pull a four-wheeler three miles with the engine off. This helps build endurance and strength while conditioning the paws for the rigors of hunting. This should be done at least three days per week.
2. Fieldwork – During the heat of the afternoon, we “free lance” our dogs by letting them run and hunt in large pastured areas at a slow but steady pace. This allows the dog to improve lung capacity and scenting abilities at the same time. It is important to condition a dog in the same heat of the day that they will be exposed to during hunting. We “free lance” our dogs only on days that we don’t do roadwork and for no more than 45 minutes.
3. Swimming – We swim our dogs several nights a week to work different muscle groups while creating less stress on joints and tendons. We have noticed a big improvement in performance since introducing this to our program. We limit this to no more than an hour and often swim with them.

Developing a solid conditioning program is very important to the health and longevity of our canine friends. Make sure that you work into conditioning over a 30-45 day period before the start of the season. In the end, a fit dog is a better hunter and you’ll see better overall health and more birds in your freezer.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.

E-Collar Control for Your Hunting Spaniel

By Jason Givens

Article originally appeared in Quail Forever magazine.

The e-collar is a useful and powerful tool that can greatly extend your reach as a trainer. When used correctly, an e-collar can be a great aid in the training and control of your hunting spaniel. Incorrect use, though, can do more harm to your dog than you can imagine. For this reason, it is important to train yourself on proper e-collar usage before you introduce one to your dog.

Getting Started
If you're going to use an e-collar on your dog, you should plan on using it all of the time. Have your dog wear the e-collar during all training sessions and whenever you're hunting. This helps avoid getting your dog “collar-wise”. A collar-wise dog will recognize that certain types of correction only occur when the collar is on and will learn to behave differently when he’s wearing the collar than when he isn’t.

Next, I recommend you follow two very important rules with regard to e-collar usage. Rule number one is, don’t "wing it". You should have a plan for collar use and you should follow that plan carefully to maximize training effectiveness. Rule number two is that you should never, ever push the transmitter button in anger. The e-collar is intended as a control rather than a punishment.

On dogs with advanced collar conditioning, you can use the e-collar to reinforce virtually any known command. For the typical hunter, though, I recommend limiting use of the e-collar to fewer specific situations. Probably the most important situation is to control to spaniel’s range while hunting. When your dog ranges out too far, you should train him to return on your call or whistle. The e-collar should be used to reinforce this command only if the dog refuses to return. Even then, you should start with the lowest level stimulation to which the dog responds and increase the level as necessary until the dog obeys. After he obeys, you should also give him some praise to mix in some positive reinforcement.

Choosing a Collar
We generally recommend an e-collar that is simple and reliable. A collar with more bells and whistles than you need can just increase the risk of confusing your dog. Tone and vibration settings can encourage you to nag your dog into believing you're not serious every time. The nick setting can be useful for collar-conditioned dogs but may have limited value to the typical hunter. One feature I consider absolutely necessary for all users, though, is variable intensity. When your spaniel misbehaves in one of your pre-determined ways, you should start stimulating him at the lowest level he recognizes and increase only if he continues the misbehavior. For this reason, you need a collar that allows you to change stimulation levels quickly and easily from the transmitter.

One final thing we recommend is to never use the e-collar when your dog is out of sight. If you don't know what he’s doing he might be working a bird. You certainly don't want to punish your dog for doing what you want and stimulating him might make him bird shy. I'll also say one last time, because it is so important, that you should not use an e-collar in anger. If you can’t control your temper you probably should not use an e-collar on your dog.

To learn more about Jason’s training methods, visit www.lighthousekennels.com.

Tips for New Field Trialers

By Jason Givens

Article originally appeared in “On the Wing”, a monthly e-mail newsletter by Pheasants Forever

Maybe you've done Field Trials & Hunt Tests before, maybe not. As a beginner you'll make mistakes and not remember everything that you're supposed to do. The more prepared you and your dog are before you get to the event, the better off you'll be. To help you along the way, I've put together a short list of key factors in performing well in dog competitions.

Make A Good Impression
What makes the best dog? Different judges look for different things. No matter how good your dog is, not all judges will like it. Here is a short list of things that will make a positive impression on most judges in flushing events.

1. Strong Finds – Fast, positive finds will get a judge to overlook minor faults in other areas. The instant your dog smells a bird, preferably from far away, he should try to get to it as fast as possible. A positive find is much more important then a positive flush.
2. Effective Pattern – Using the wind to cover the course is much more effective than simply running from gun to gun. As often as possible, your dog should be running perpendicular to the wind and always smelling fresh ground.
3. Showing Control – Your dog should be able to run with only an occasional whistle. Lots of loud whistles annoy many judges. One or two reminder whistles is okay, but the quieter the run the better.  

These three points are really one main point: Working properly, under control to get fast, hard finds from a good distance is the recipe for success.

Avoid Trouble
You want your dog to have a clean run with few issues for a judge to ponder.  Never make a judge think! The following tips are the obvious things to avoid in order to stay out of trouble.

1. Hard Mouth – Very few judges will tolerate dead birds. Injury is always a possibility with a powerful flushing dog and sometimes a wing or a rib is broken. If it happens often, though, judges will take note of it.
2. Excessive Noise – Your dog should be quiet and not whimper or whine while waiting. He should also be patient and not bark at missed birds or yip when sent on a retrieve.
3. Sloppy Delivery – You shouldn't be wrestling with your dog to get the bird and he shouldn't be trying to grab it from the judge's hand. The dog should come in, give you the bird, and wait for the next command.

Most people are amazed, when they start competing with their dogs, at how many things can go wrong. You need to remember that Field Trials & Hunt Tests are just games we play with our dogs. There are rules to each game that must be followed to achieve success,  but the primary objective always is to be enjoying yourself and your dog. When you have a bad day, just take it in stride and come back the next weekend and show them how good your dog really is.

To learn more about Jason’s training methods, visit www.lighthousekennels.com.

How About A Pager For Your Dog?

By Chad Hines

Article originally appeared in “On the Wing”, a monthly e-mail newsletter by Pheasants Forever

It Works For People
For years, business people have used pagers to maintain effective communication while out of the office. Through sound or vibration, a pager has proven an effective way of letting them know when someone needs to communicate with them. In the dog world, many brands of electronic collars have recently begun to feature a "page", or vibration, function that can be selectively used by the trainer. At the press of a button, the box on the collar will vibrate, rather than producing the more traditional stimulation. Why not make use of this new technology to improve communication with your dog?

Send A Subtle Message
Most collar manufacturers suggest using this vibration as a warning signal that your dog is about to be stimulated unless it responds to your command. We've found that the more warnings a dog gets, the less consistently they comply with our commands. Rather than using the pager feature as a warning tone, we recommend using the pager function as a silent and easy way to bring your dog in closer. The pager function is a great way to send your dog a reminder that he needs to check in with you.

As a team, it is important that you have a way to communicate with your dog that he is getting out of gun range. Sending a silent message through vibration is much quieter than a voice or whistle command, so you will be less likely to spook wary birds. This is particularly useful if you have a hard running dog that may have a tendency to get outside gun range.

Pager Training
Teaching your dog to understand the message you are sending is fairly simple. Start out by just taking your dog for a walk and let him hunt, or just walk, out in front of you. When your dog starts to get out of your comfortable gun range, turn and change direction, and push the pager button. The dog will turn around and see that you are going a different way, and should start to follow you.

If necessary, we encourage the use of voice commands or a soft whistle early on to let your dog know that you want him to stay with you. After a while, you shouldn't need the voice or whistle, and you can use the traditional stimulation to back up the pager if necessary. Ultimately, we have found that most dogs will begin to understand pager conditioning pretty quickly and provide you with one more effective tool in communicating with your dog in the field.

To learn more about Chad and Jodi’s training methods, visit www.willowcreekkennels.net.

It's The Training, Not The Tool!

By Susan Barnes

Article originally appeared in “On the Wing”, a monthly e-mail newsletter by Pheasants Forever
 
While on a radio show, I was told of young pointing dog that was taken out to hunt his first birds, the owner relying on an e-collar (electronic collar) to help keep the dog close.  The dog hit the open field and was gone.  The owner called the dog and pressed the transmitter button to no avail. Their day of "hunting" came to a close with only one find…the dog 4 hours later. Many unsuccessful e-collar stories take on a similar theme and often the collar or dog is blamed for the failure.  As owners and trainers we must understand that our equipment is only as effective as the operator and the training. 

Understanding The Tool
It is important to understand that an e-collar itself is not the answer. Knowing how to use it properly is what creates success.  Simply pressing a button does not install "Microsoft dog".  That would be like suggesting that buying the best shotgun on the market would make a person a skilled hunter and crack shot.  The tool can be VERY effective, but the METHOD, KNOWLEDGE and SKILL of the user are what create success or failure.

Making Your Dog Collar Literate
We start all of our dogs' e-collar training away from the field.  With dogs as young as 6 months, we build a foundation; teaching the dog to understand the language of the "stimulation".  Stimulation is used to get the dog's attention and also to teach the command with which it is applied.  The dog must learn that performance of the command stops the stim, which "marks" the correct behavior or response.

Introduction to the e-collar begins with finding the right level of intensity to get the dog's attention. With the dog on a long line, we allow them to move away from us and tap, tap, tap on the nick button until the dog turns and begins to move toward us.  We may say nothing initially to allow the dog to focus without the interference of verbal associations, but we eventually add the command "here" or "come" to give the behavioral response a name.  As the dog learns, the number of taps should decrease while confidence and consistency increase.

Understanding The Dog's Response
It is important that you understand that the stim is an unknown when introduced and dogs can respond many different ways to the new sensation. Some turn and come immediately, some lie down and others may even freeze. This occurs due to confusion and to get through this you must assist the dog in performing the expected behavior while still applying the stim until the dog is correct. Remember, this can also happen with a dog that knows a command but is not e-collar "literate". Many people make the mistake of assuming their dog should know the way to respond to the stim and instead of assisting and teaching the dog the correct response they either stop the stim (marking the incorrect behavior) or adjust the stim thinking this will motivate the dog to respond. It is important that you recognize that the e-collar is a communication tool and using it incorrectly or inconsistently is no different than speaking on a cell phone with bad reception….its confusing, annoying and the message is usually not conveyed effectively.  

Taking It To The Next Level
Understanding and applying this method to all commands with consistency will produce a top performing dog in the field and in the home. These are just a few of the basics and by no means all that goes into introducing the e-collar to your dog. The next time you pull an e-collar from your training bag, consider whether you are using it to train your dog or just control and correct him.  Making the most of that e-collar will help make your dog successful provided you use it to its potential and employ sound training methods. It is the knowledge, skill and ability in using an e-collar skillfully that creates great hunters, champions and even the best companions.

To learn more about Native Pro Staffer Sue Barnes, visit www.mytdog.org.

Tips for Beginning Retriever Training

By Todd Sterrett

Article originally appeared in “On the Wing”, a monthly e-mail newsletter by Pheasants Forever

Train To Your Expectations
There are many schools of thought regarding the best methods for training a finished retriever. The extent and style of training will often depend on the activities you plan to perform with your dog. For example, your standards of acceptable training may be very different if you plan to do a lot of Hunt Tests or Field Trials versus an effective dog for recreational hunting. We tailor our training to the individual needs of the dog owner.

Most retrievers from good hunting lines will show natural tendencies to hold, carry and retrieve objects in their mouths. Some pups will retrieve directly to your hand with very little or no training. Others will drop things on the ground or just run around playing keep-away. Our goal is to develop a finished bird dog that consistently delivers birds to heel and hand. In order to achieve consistent delivery, force/hold and force-fetching a puppy is ideal around 6 months of age or whenever his adult teeth have come in.

Basics Don't Change
Whether for hunting or competition, there are some basic "Do's & Don'ts" for retrieve training that are fairly constant. These are essential to build the foundation for a well conditioned bird dog that consistently retrieves to your expectations.

Basic Do's & Don'ts

1. When the pup gets to the point it is no longer returning to you with an object, put a check cord on the pup so they are forced to return to you.
2. Praise your pup when he returns to you and while he is still holding the object in his mouth. Do not remove the object immediately, let him hold it and praise him.
3. Watch the corrections you give when retrieving. Higher drive pups can be corrected more while with a lower desire retrieving pup you may need to do less correcting.
4. Start by throwing retrieves in confined areas. This helps limit distractions and encourages direct returns. A hallway works great for doing this.
5. Avoid training sessions being too long. Keep them fun and make them successful.
6. Introduce your pup to birds and feathers as young as possible. Getting a puppy into water at a young age is always a great idea as well.

Right From The Start
If possible, it is much better to avoid undesirable behavior from the start since it is much easier to learn proper behavior when you don't have to unlearn improper behavior first. From a very early age, it is essential to consistently reinforce the behavior you want. If the pup is picking things up and carrying them, use encouragement to get him to bring it to you. When he brings it to you, praise him and let him enjoy the prize with you. The most important thing is to start your pup off right by making it fun to retrieve the right way every time.

To learn more about Todd’s training methods, visit www.arrowheadkennels.net.

Determining Factors In Bird Dog Abilities

By Steve Ries

Laying A Genetic Foundation
In more than fifteen years of breeding dogs, we have taken great care in selecting traits for hunting, conformation, and overall health in order to ensure a quality household and hunting companion. We have learned that breeding opposites together will not necessarily produce "happy mediums" nor does the "give and take" method used by convenient mating make consistent litters of individual offspring.

We read classified ads with words like natural ability, proven hunters, guaranteed, etc. and can't help but cringe as a breeder and trainer knowing how little these terms can mean. Experience and many dollars in tuition have taught us that genetic progress is made with strict selection practices that balance traits and focus on breed improvement. These practices may include spaying or neutering an animal with trait defects and proving breeding animals through performance testing and health certification. Taking shortcuts to reach your goals will rarely produce the desired traits. In the end, the quality of your hunting companion will come down to three basic factors in ability.

Natural Ability
This is the ability God has given each individual animal based on the traits brought forward from their parents. Pointers should naturally point just like retrievers should naturally retrieve and flushers should naturally flush. These untrained traits are displayed naturally when exposed to hunting situations. Have you stopped to wonder what is going through that young pointing dog's mind when he is pointing that first pheasant or quail? Do you think there is excitement or fear during that first duck chase across the open water by a young retriever? All great hunting companions have natural traits and abilities bred into them from selected breeding plans that were conceived well before his litter.

Train-Ability
This is the ability to learn and retain commands through repetition and experience. Many trainers would agree that these traits are often overlooked or misunderstood in a solid breeding program. When we have a student come into our training program, a strong desire by a dog to learn what is needed and expected of them to move forward in training creates a true pleasure for the trainer. These dogs move to the head of the class through a willingness to retain the training and achieve higher goals than fellow classmates.

Bid-Ability
This might be a new word for many dog owners and some would suggest that bid-ability is the most important of the three. Bid-ability is how an individual dog responds to a correction or whether there is a willingness to accept training at all. Signs of bid-ability can range from excessive alpha dominance, an animal that will not submit to your needs, to excessive timidity in dogs that avoid any training stress at all. Bid-ability can be difficult to determine without a willingness by the breeder to prove sires, dams or offspring through standard performance tests. There are many events available to demonstrate these traits and a reputable breeder and trainer will use them to prove a well rounded dog from a well balanced line.

Bringing It All Together
It is important to consider all three factors in ability when selecting a hunting companion. Choosing proven dogs from reputable kennels is the best way to ensure your companion is the product of healthy trait selection that evaluates the strengths and weaknesses of both the breed and the individual dog. Nothing guarantees your hunting success, but your chances are greatly improved when your hunting companion displays a great combination of natural ability, train-ability and bid-ability earned through exhaustive trait selection.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.