Steady or Not?

By Steve Ries

There is a long history of good arguments within all upland hunting breeds whether or not training to steadiness is important to their wild bird hunting situations. Some will argue the importance of being right behind the bird, as the natural survival instinct takes flight and success of one sharp shooter’s skill meet together. Others will argue the safety of their well-trained hunting companion is far more important than the risks of hunting with others in excitable moments during the hunt.

First of all, let’s have a better understanding of what “steady” really means as a training level.

Having a steady dog simply means a dog that will stand still, or sit at the flush, or shot of the game pursued. To pointing breeds, this is usually an inherited trait selected in breeding programs of importance and natural to the breed.

To the retrievers and flushers, steady simply means to sit still on command or cue developed in a training program. This trait is a training command, which is not inherited or natural as their instincts tell them to move the game from its next position.

Steadiness in hunting breeds can be developed with combining natural instincts and artificial situations of birds in launchers or planted birds used to create associations of distractions with commands already in place.

We first must teach a dog to stand still or sit and not move until we invite them to do so. Adding distraction of birds to this training will entice the movement from this command and allow us to train or re-enforce the commands used to steady them back up.

As we build an understanding of each command, we can further our levels of steadiness like a foundation on a building. First, you want a solid foundation to build from and cannot move forward with the rest of the training until we complete each level to support the next.

Steady to flush means a dog will stand still or sit until the bird is moved from its nesting position. The point or sit is released at the flush if this is the level or cue built into your training program and will give chase immediately with the flush.

More hunters are steadying their dogs through the flush until the shot to avoid any risk placed in their hunting companions. These versatile breeds will stay focused on the flight of the bird and released at the shot to narrow the distance from the harvested game and make a complete retrieve.

Regardless of your side of these beliefs, we all enjoy a well-trained hunting companion that will create a safe situation during an intense moment of the hunt.

Be safe and enjoy the great outdoors.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.

What’s in a Guarantee?

By Steve Ries

Remember when a handshake and a person’s word was all it took to seal the deal? A person’s promise was a bond; integrity was not a commodity, but part of a common set of values. I’m not saying integrity no longer exists, but in today’s world, the expectation is to provide written guarantees to clarify who is responsible for what in case one party or another is not satisfied.

A Better Program Equals Better Odds
When it comes to breeding performance hunting companions, we are dealing with a variety of genetic traits and environmental factors. These factors, when combined with ownership expectations and changing goals, can occasionally produce results that are impossible to predict. This doesn’t mean we refuse to accept responsibility for our dogs––things happen that we couldn’t predict and couldn’t control. It does mean, though, that we need a good understanding of the people with whom we are doing business and try to ensure they have reasonable expectations.

If I were to tell you we have never had an issue with a dog, whether health or behavior related, I would not be giving an honest or realistic assessment. I can say with absolute confidence, however, that we follow a disciplined breeding and training regimen that is rigorously maintained to produce the most desirable traits. These traits include a number of factors among which overall health, hunting ability, and social behavior are given highest priority.

Owning Pups Doesn’t Make You a Breeder
Most kennels today offer some type of guarantee to provide a degree of confidence to prospective dog owners. The real guarantee, though, is the breeder himself. Have you ever heard the phrase: “I have not heard of this before” or “This is the first time we have ever had this happen”? A professional breeder with years of experience shouldn’t be able to utter these words honestly very often so it is understandably frustrating when they do.

When a person purchases a puppy from a breeder to get both the breed and the specific dog that best meets their needs, they expect a long term companion who will help them achieve the goals they had in mind when they began their search. When they learn after 2-3 years of time and expense for purchase, training and vaccination that their canine family member has a genetic issue that will require surgery, medication or worse, they are understandably upset.

I truly believe that many breeders do their best to provide a quality pup for purchase. They would not knowingly breed or sell an unhealthy animal with faulty genetic traits. The key point here is that they wouldn’t do it “knowingly”. In our experience it is most often a lack of knowledge and experience rather than a lack of integrity that is to blame when faulty genetics are reproduced. Unfortunately, this often results in animals that do no good for either the breed or the mislead owners.

Who Is Responsible For The Guarantee?
Much like buying a vehicle, you should think long term when shopping for a new pup. Sure you look for speed or style or comfort, but most importantly you look for a brand you trust and believe will provide long term value. Making an impulse purchase of an unknown brand because it’s attractive carries a much greater risk that you won’t be satisfied long term.

The same rules apply to shopping for a household or hunting companion. Don’t increase your risks by purchasing a “cute” pup from some fast talking owners of a litter (notice I did not use “breeders”) with little history or experience in doing business with the breed. This is a 10-15 year commitment we are talking about and it is worth your time, effort and money to do your research and find the best long term match for you.

In all fairness, even the most experienced breeders with the finest reputations can experience anomalies when recessive genes come together to create an unexpected and undesirable traits. The difference is that the reputable breeder will learn from this and take steps to eliminate this risk from future combinations. In all likelihood, because the breeder is reputable and experienced, he probably already has prevented many of these unforeseen combinations through years of selective breeding.

So who is responsible for the guarantee? The answer is both parties. A true guarantee comes from a combination of a reputable breeder and an informed consumer that has done their homework in identifying the desired breed and traits for them, as well as the right breeder.

Keep in mind that trait selection doesn’t only work for the dogs. If enough of us only buy from reputable breeders with the long term interest of both us and the breed in mind, pretty soon the less reputable breeders won’t have any customers. The only ones remaining will be those that are interested not only in the sale, but in a long term relationship with satisfied customers who will share their experience with others. The only real guarantee is choosing the right kind of breeder with integrity and years of hard won experience.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.

The Last Hunt

By Steve Ries

Too often gun dog owners take for granted their teammates and do not realize how great they truly were until after they have passed. I own numerous dogs and have had the pleasure to hunt with dozens of fine hunting hounds. With that said, I always knew my first dog Lily, was something special.

The Greatest Gift
I got Lily as a wedding present from my mother and father-in-law. She was a chocolate bundle of joy and the first dog that was wholly mine. I was determined to train her myself to not only hunt, but run competition. Hunting was natural to her, but the competition was well… something she ran me in. Trainers would refer to her as a “whole lotta dog”. This was basically a nice way to tell me I was in over my head. I still decided I was going to train my girl and learn with her the art of the retrieving sports. We worked plenty and she became a great upland hunter for grouse and pheasants. Many a time came along where I was ridiculed for my brown dog being inferior because of her color––nothing would be said and we would head to the field. After the hunt, (and after she hunted the other dogs off the field in embarrassment), I would receive the same compliment: Not bad for a chocolate.

Lily eventually led me to the Labrador retriever breeding world. I decided to work on producing my own kennel and line of labs. With the strength of puppies from Lily the groundwork was laid for my kennel, training program, and eventual foray into television. With all of the above said, I will still always remember our last hunt.

“Just Me and You, Boss”
It was December and I had 5 dogs at our cabin. Grouse season was still open and I decided to take the dogs out. Slowing in her old age, Lily would struggle to keep up with the young dogs. Even at 11 years old, she still would manage to put up her share of birds. As I got my shotgun and coat I let Lily out of the cabin. I was walking to the kennel to get a couple of other dogs when she gave me that look. The look said, “Let’s go out together, just me and you, boss.” I had gotten the look other times, but for some reason took her up on it that day.

We went out in the woods and put up 12 grouse. I shot like usual and we got only one. It didn’t matter though. I could see how much it meant to my old girl that it was just the two of us. She would flush birds, look after I shot and run back to me. Once at my feet, she would drop on her back and perform the “Victory Roll” that she had become famous for with friends and clients. The truth was neither of us cared if we got a bird; it was just she and I, as a team. I did take her out to a few game farm hunts later in the year, but that was truly our last hunt.

Life Lessons
It is said that you only get one great dog in your life. I am sure that I will, and already do, have dogs with immense talent, shown by their titles. But ability and titles are not what make a hunting dog great. I know I will never again have the same bond with another dog that Lily and I had. She was my first and once-in-a-lifetime all at once.

My Dillers taught me more about dogs, training, life, and now death than any other animal ever will. She passed with a massive infection––by the time she saw a vet it was too late. To her last day, she never showed a sign of illness. I think she was just focusing on the hunting season that was only a month away. Twelve years is a good life for a Lab, especially as they were all quality years. That still doesn’t make the thought of not having her in the field, riding shotgun in the truck, or sitting on my lap on the couch any easier.

Tomorrow dawns a new day and I’ll pick myself up. I will work with my dogs and hunting season will be packed with adventures. I just won’t enjoy them quite as much as I used to.

Thank you for the great memories girl. Now rest easy, find a nice tree to curl up under, and please wait for me. I’ll be along in a bit and we will hit the field. I promise to shoot straight this time and it will be just the two of us. I promise.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.

The 3 Types of Upland Sporting Dogs

By Steve Ries

An Extension Of You

There are many sporting breeds for upland bird hunting and everyone has a personal preference. In my experience, many types and breeds of dogs can be effective hunters. Most sporting breeds produce well rounded companions with the genetics to excel while hunting in the field or on the lake. A good bird dog, regardless of breed, will give you a longer reach and the ability to find, point or flush and retrieve more birds than you could on your own. The shooting part, though, is up to you.

Upland Types

There are three general categories sporting dogs used for upland bird hunting: Flushing, Pointing and Retrieving. Each type has its own strengths and characteristics in addition to variations among the breeds within each type. The following is a general overview of what you can expect from a hunting companion of each type. Keep in mind that these are general statements and you may see significant differences not just among different breeds, but also between dogs of the same breed.

Pointing Breeds

As a breeder and trainer of pointing dogs for many years I’m a little biased. Pointing dogs fit my hunting style best but I have enjoyed hunting with Flushers and Retrievers as well.

• Hunting Strengths – Pointing breeds are often somewhat smaller and leaner than retrievers and capable of covering a lot of ground due to tremendous athleticism. Some breeds have less speed but still exhibit great endurance. They will generally hunt within gun range and, upon finding a bird, they will lock on point and give you time to approach for a comfortable shot. Most pointing breeds will naturally retrieve to hand.
• Common Breeds – Brittany, English Setter, German Shorthaired Pointer, German Wirehaired Pointer and Pointer (English).

Retrieving Breeds

Retrievers include the most popular registered breed (Labrador Retriever) according to the American Kennel Club (AKC). This is generally considered to be a result of the intelligence and social nature of the breed.

• Hunting Strengths – Retrieving breeds are known for their versatility and their ability to withstand extreme cold be it snow, ice or water. They generally have a more rugged build, but maintain good speed and agility. They will quarter in front of the hunter to flush upland birds and should stay within comfortable gun range. As you can tell from the name, they are enthusiastic retrievers of upland birds and they love the water.
• Common Breeds – Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Golden Retriever and Labrador Retriever.

Flushing Breeds

Flushers also include some breeds that are very popular as house companions due to their size, appearance and disposition. For the most part, Spaniels populate the flushing category.

• Hunting Strengths – Flushing breeds are generally smaller in stature than many pointing and retrieving counterparts. They will quarter in front of the hunter to flush birds and should also stay within comfortable gun range. Like Retrievers, they are very comfortable in water and have coats that are well suited to extreme cold. Flushers will naturally retrieve to hand and are well known for their stamina.
• Common Breeds – Boykin Spaniel, English Cocker Spaniel and English Springer Spaniel.

Many Good Choices

The thing to remember is that the best bird dog is the one that fits your hunting style. Research breeds and find one with the traits and qualities you desire. Training and hunting with an instinctive hunting companion can provide many years of outdoor enjoyment. If you don’t have the time or experience to train him, we encourage you to work with a professional to bring out the natural gifts of whatever breed you choose.

For more information on specific sporting breeds, visit the Bird Dog Bonanza at www.quailforever.org.

Seasonal Feeding Programs

By Steve Ries

Feeding For Performance
As a breeder and trainer of canine athletes, we've spent many years refining our feeding program to ensure peak performance and condition throughout the year. Consequently, we get a lot of questions about the feeding regimen in our kennel. Following is a summary of some of the key points to consider regarding daily feeding requirements.

Focus First on Hydration
Before you consider how to feed, you must address the top priority. Dehydration is likely the greatest risk you face when moving from your off-season routine into the hunting season. While dogs don't sweat, they lose water through a variety of other activities. The importance of a constant supply of clean, fresh water cannot be underestimated and is likely the greatest contribution you can make to the health of your dog. Maintain a steady supply of water throughout the year and allow your dog to replenish with frequent small doses while hunting.

Special Attention To Puppies
Puppies have 2-3 times the maintenance requirement of a similar sized adult. This makes it more difficult to meet their caloric needs as activity increases. We tell our customers that their puppy burns a lot of fuel but has a small tank. Consequently, we suggest feeding in small increments 3-4 times daily until at least six moths of age to make sure energy needs are met. Since obesity can also cause major health issues down the road, we avoid overfeeding to consistently maintain ideal body condition.

Adult Requirements
Feeding an adult dog is easy during the off-season since there is little fluctuation in their requirements. A fifty pound dog can generally maintain proper body condition on 1000-1500 calories daily with normal temperatures and activity levels. As activity increases for the hunting season, calorie requirements can increase by as much as 50%. It is important to monitor your dog to make sure he maintains the proper condition to perform at the desired level throughout the season.

Meal Time
In our kennel, we place a great deal of importance on feeding times. Whatever the age of your dog, it is important to time feedings to allow for proper digestion before periods of activity. Here are a few quick feeding tips to help you avoid digestive issues with your dog.

1. Avoid feeding in the heat of the day as this can result in increased body temperature caused by the digestive process.
2. Allow at least 2 hours between feeding and exercise to help avoid digestive issues like indigestion and bloat.
3. Break daily feeding into at least 2 meals (e.g. morning and evening) as this also helps avoid digestive issues.

It is also important to train your dog to eat when offered. This will allow you to more easily adhere to the tips noted above and avoid problems while maximizing performance.

A Winter Coat
We'll close with comments on how environmental factors affect calorie requirements. If your dog spends the winter in low temperatures, his body is forced to generate its own heat. He may need up to 30% more calories to generate the required body heat. If he's curled up indoors with you, though, it's best to avoid the extra calories and keep him lean and mean. This will make it easier to get him back into hunting form when the weather warms.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.

What Level Is Your Dog?

By Steve Ries

What The Levels Mean
The first thing most people ask when they see Native® performance dog food is what do the Energy Levels mean. The Energy Levels are simply an indicator of the caloric content of each formula. The higher the number, the higher the calorie content. Native was designed to make it easy to choose the level of food that will meet your dog's needs and all Levels are formulated to meet the nutritional requirements for all life stages.

Change Is Easy
With one exception, the ingredients are exactly the same in all of the Native products. The Energy Levels are increased by simply adjusting the balance of Proteins, Fats and Carbohydrates in each formula. Since the ingredients are the same, you won't get digestive issues when you move from one Energy Level to another as your dog gets more active.

The one exception is that Native Level 1 uses primarily Lamb Meal while the other Levels use primarily Chicken Meal. This formula was created to meet the needs of dogs that have very sensitive stomachs and just seem to do better on Lamb than other meat proteins.

Energy Factors
With that said, there are several factors that will determine what Level is appropriate for your canine athlete. We have found the following factors to be the most important ones.

• Breed – As a rule, certain breeds tend to burn more calories than others.
• Age – Puppies tend to burn more calories than adults.
• Activity – Obviously, more active dogs burn more calories.

You should keep in mind as you consider these factors that there really are no hard and fast rules. Every dog is a little different and body condition should be evaluated on a regular basis to ensure that nutritional requirements are being met.

So What Level Is Your Dog?
The following are some recommended starting points that work well for most breeds. Again, this is just a starting point. If your dog is very active, move him up a level if it seems to help.

Formula	Puppies	Adults
Native Level 1	Large breed puppies Puppies with sensitive stomachs	Medium and large breeds with normal activity All breeds with sensitive stomachs
Native Level 2	Medium breed puppies Large breed puppies	Small & medium breeds - normal activity Large breed – active dogs
Native Level 3	Small & medium breed puppies Large breed puppies if limit fed	Small & medium breed – active dogs Large breed – very active dogs
Native Level 3 Puppy	Small & medium breed puppies Large breed puppies if limit fed	Small breed – very active dogs Dogs that must have very small kibble
Native Level 4	Small breed puppies Medium breed puppies if limit fed	Small breed – very active dogs Medium & large breed – very active dogs

Don't Forget The Water
As always, quality and quantity of water is the key to any nutritional program. We need to make sure the bowl is kept clean and full to maintain optimal health. We strongly encourage frequent cleaning of your food and water bowls to avoid the presence of bacteria and we try to never let the water bowl run dry. This may be the best thing you can do to keep your dog happy and healthy.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.

Transitioning To A New Dog Food

By Steve Ries

Changing To A New Food
As we talk to people about Native^® performance dog food, one question we are often asked is how to safely switch your dog to a new food. The answer is particularly important due to the nature of a high performance food. Performance foods are very nutrient dense since they don't contain “filler” type ingredients like corn, wheat, soy and by-products. They are formulated to enhance the performance of a very active dog, but they leave a smaller margin for error with regard to feeding quantity. The following are a few important points to keep in mind when considering a switch to a performance food.

Change Should Be Gradual
Because dogs are consistently fed the same diet, it can be hard on their digestive system to change foods too suddenly. When you make a change to your dog's diet, you should do it gradually by mixing progressively smaller quantities of the current food with larger quantities of the new food. We generally recommend a schedule like the following:

•    Days 1-3:    Mix 20% of the new food with 80% of the old food
•    Days 4-6:    Mix 40% of the new food with 60% of the old food
•    Days 7-9:    Mix 60% of the new food with 40% of the old food
•    Days 10-12:    Mix 80% of the new food with 20% of the old food
•    Day 13:    Feed 100% of the new food

This type of schedule should allow your dog to adjust to the new diet without indigestion. Keep in mind that you'll need to have six days worth of the old food on hand to get you through the transition.

Don't Overfeed
Many dogs have large appetites and will eat all you feed them so you need to be careful not to overfeed. Obesity, particularly at a young age, can cause serious health issues later in life. We recommend a performance food because your dog will be healthier and perform better, but they do have higher calories so you'll want to limit feed. While all foods have feeding guidelines on the package, these are really just a starting point. The best way to determine how much food your dog needs is to keep a close eye on body condition. If he looks too thin, feed him a little more. If he looks like he is carrying too much weight, scale him back a little bit at a time. He may act hungry but his body condition will tell you different.

Wait For The Payoff
One final thing to keep in mind is that it usually takes 4-8 weeks to see the full benefit of a new food. Normal signs of improvement like smaller, firmer stools should happen pretty quickly but improvements in skin, coat and endurance take a little longer. You'll want to give your new food at least a couple months before you evaluate the full effects. A bird dog with more energy and endurance means better hunting and more birds so the end result definitely makes a change worthwhile.

To learn more about Steve Ries and his training methods, visit www.topgungsps.com.